Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon

Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, simply known as “Lagoa” (translation for the word lagoon or lake in Portuguese) is the name of an upper middle class neighborhood in Rio´s south zone and most certainly an excellent option for you to spend your Rio de Janeiro vacation. The district is also one of city’s main local hangout spots with several day and night options, such as the “Lagoa Kiosks”. This Rio-de-Janeiro district is kindly described as “Rio ´s heart” since it is surrounded by the 7 other traditional neighborhoods, such as , Gávea, , Jardim Botânico, Copacabana, Botafogo and Humaitá. The Lagoa district is also famous for being one of the city’s most pleasant neighborhoods to live. In many qualities of living surveys, the region achieved the wonder city´s top marks in terms of safety, cleaning, education, sewage systems, green areas, access to cultural activities and gourmet food.

As we will see below, the neighborhood is very lively along the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon borders, with several day clubs such as the prestigious and the Paissandú Atlético Club where cricket is still played by the British colony residents. There are also several sports clubs around the lake that offer nautical sports such as rowing and water skiing. The district hosts the lively , which is group of parks and gardens around the lagoon with many l leisure options such as playgrounds for kids, sculptures, roller skate rinks, workout stations and sport courts. This Lagoa district guide prepared by also reviewed the region´s nightlife activities, including a critique of the main restaurants, the romantic Lagoa Kiosks and other cultural activities. Please continue to read below to find pictures, history & origin, main avenues and even a museum located at this charming district in Rio-de-Janeiro.

Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon: History From 16th Century to today’s charm!

Now, let´s get to know a little bit of the district’s history and origins: In the XVI century, there were some farms and mills in Jardim da Gávea, comprising the current neighborhoods Gávea, Jardim Botânico, and Lagoon itself. This area presented good lands for sugar cane plantation, which activity interested very much to the settlers in the beginning of Carioca’s life.

At the lake borders, which were known by the Indians as Sapopenipã - meaning lagoon of flat roots in Tupi-Guarani, and by the Portuguese people as lagoon of the socós, since there were loads of such birds in the region, it was settled the Engenho Del Rei (King’s Mill) by the Governor Antonio Salema, right after having expelled the French corsairs from Baía de Guanabara in 1575.

At the beginning of the XIX century, D. João VI when moving to Brazil, in 1808, arrived a the wonder city and, the first thing he did was to built a gunpowder factory so that his army and navy were able to protect the city against possible French invasions. The location chosen to build the factory was within the lands around the lagoon, which was already named Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon. In order to such construction to be done, D. João VI reimbursed Rodrigo de Freitas family, and the factory was built this year. In 1826, the gunpowder factory built by D. João VI exploded and was, then, moved to Raiz da Serra on the way D. Pedro II used to make do get to Petrópolis, which was called Fábrica da Estrela (Star Factory).

From half of XIX century, sugar cane production starts facing a crisis making some mills in the rural regions to become small farms.

On January 1, 1871, Jardim Botânico Railway Company, a company that got the first concession of mule trams, extended its railways to where today is Jardim Botânico neighborhood. Two years after, on December 17, 1873, the Company launched Gávea extension, which became “Freguesia" next year. Freguesia da Gávea, which comprised the current neighborhoods of Lagoa, Jardim Botânico, Gávea, , Leblon, Vidigal, São Conrado, and part of Barra da Tijuca, reached in 1890 a population of 4.712 people.

At the end of the century, Freguesia da Gávea started to be filled by textile factories, and then, fast increasing population. In the first decade of XX century, in the urban reform program implemented by the Mayor Pereira Passos, it was performed Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon sanitation. In 1919, Mayor Paulo de Frontim, aiming at solving the lagoon sanitation problem decided for its salinization, but it was during Carlos Sampaio’s administration that such area started to be effectively urbanized, integrating, thus, the new and large "noble area" to the city. (In 1920, although the groundings, the Lagoon area were still closed to Humaitá and Marquês de São Vicente streets) . In 1922, the lagoon border was rounded by a beautiful avenue, which was used for building houses for the carioca high-society, this avenue was called Ave., honoring the President of Republic that time, Mr. Epitácio Pessoa. In 1926, it was founded the Brazilian Jockey Club, which remains in the same area until today.

In the 50’s, the textile factories ‘Carioca’ and ‘Corcovado’ were closed, and their areas were urbanized, thus ending the industrial phase in the Neighborhood. At the same time, the shantytowns were withdrawn from the region where the poorest lived. During Governor Carlos Lacerda’s administration, the Rebouças tunnels were opened, which links Lagoon to Comprido, thus linking North to South.

At the beginning of the 70’s, the real state speculation occurred in a more aggressive way in the neighborhood which was targeted by the Construction Companies, which started to ground, even though they had no authorization from the City Hall, the Rodrigo de Freitas lagoon in order to build residential buildings. Thus, the Lagoon, which had already been suffered from the groundings since 1808, lost almost half of its original area. Several protests from people who lived there and architects like Oscar Niemeyer and Lucio Costa came out in order to make the Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon and its border declared historical patrimony.

In the 80’s, the attentions were to Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon waters clean-up, where several projects were presented and some of them, having the private initiative help and international capital, were performed. However, only in the 90’s, Cariocas could appreciate the water mirror less polluted. It was in the last three decades of the century that the neighborhood got a good participation in Carioca’s nightlife with bars, discos and restaurants for all tastes.

Lagoon Sports Hype: Paradise for Rowers and Runners

This “paradise for rowers” has approximately 26 million square feet of water surface ( 2 square mile ) that make possible several water sports including rowing, canoeing, water-ski and even wind-surf. The city´s official Rowing Stadium is also located at the lagoon and was home to the rowing competitions. The Rodrigo de Freitas rowing tracks are considered a “” all over the world, and has surely one of the most privileged views, with Christ the Redeemer and mountains as its frame.

Three very traditional Brazilian soccer teams have their nautical sport sites located at the lagoon shores: , and . The Rodrigo de Freitas lagoon also hosts most of the rowing competitions organized by . What many people don´t know is that the most popular sport activity done around the lagoon is jogging itself, followed by cycling. The Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon has a 4,6 miles race and bicycle track, properly signed. Palm and almond trees are present all around the Lagoon, which provide a truly tropical atmosphere. Considering these sports options, the neighborhood is surely is one of Rio de Janeiro vacation best spots to hang around if your are the jock type or simply want some moderate exercises.

Tom Jobim Park: Kids and Family Play in Harmony

One of the best-equipped recreation areas in the City, the park runs 7.5 kms around the Rodrigo de Freitas lagoon. Named in honor of singer-songwriter , this park joins the other three areas of the Lagoa district: Parque Brigadeiro Faria Lima, Parque Cantagalo and Parque Taboas. A favorite route for walkers, joggers and cyclists, it also offers pedal-boat outings on the calm waters of the lagoon. This ring of parks features snack kiosks, playgrounds, exercise equipment, bathrooms with showers, tables, benches, and ample parking. The Skate Park (Av. Borges de Medeiros between the Rowing Stadium and the Clube Piraquê) has a multiple-use area, a roller-skating rink, amphitheater, soccer pitch, multi-sports courts and swings and rides for children.

The Parque do Cantagalo park (facing the Corte do Cantagalo) offer visitors facilities for baseball, soccer, volleyball, tennis and basketball, as well as roller-hockey. Please note that there are kiosks next to this park as well. The park running along Av. Epitácio Pessoa (between the Jardim de Alah and the Clube de Regatas do Flamengo) has a skateboard half-pipe, multi-sports courts, and a tennis court. This park also includes the City Council and Civil Police heliports, the Rowing Stadium, and the Botafogo and Flamengo water-sports facilities and club-houses

Lagoa Kiosks: Multiple Charming Options for Dating!

During the night, locals and tourists will find on the banks of the lagoon more than 20 different kiosks within the Tom Jobim Park, next to main avenues Av. Epitácio Pessoa and Av. Borges de Medeiros.

The Lagoa Kiosks became a very popular night-out option over the last years because of their live music atmosphere and security aspect for all types of tastes and became one of Rio de Janeiro vacation top activities. Some of them are charming due to their lake view, especially on week days, since they do not crowd. Another interesting aspect of these Kiosks at Laggoa is that you can find kiosks that most fit not only your gourmet selection but musical taste! Most kiosks are known by their musical genre; many play Brazilian Popular Music – MPB, Brazilian jazz, Bossa Nova and the samba. Dish prices are also very reasonable, varying from USD 10.00 up to USD 30.00 per person. Below we listed additional information on four of the most famous and rated Kiosks: Drink Café, Caffé Del Lagoa, Arab, Gondola Café.

• Drink Café Kiosk Cuisine/Specialty: Regional from the Northeast of Brazil
• Drink Café Kiosk Address: Av. Borges de Medeiros, Kiosk # 5
• Drink Café Kiosk Open Hours: Monday-Friday, 2:00 PM; Sat. and Sun 09:00 AM
• Drink Café Kiosk Payment Options: Amex, Cash
• Drink Café Kiosk Musical Genre: Quality Jazz, Brazilian Popular Music- MPB, Northeast Music

• Cuisine/Specialty: Typical Brazilian Food
• Address: Av. Borges de Medeiros, Kiosk # 8,
• Open Hours: Mon-Fri.10:30 AM through 02:00. Sat. and Sun: 11:00 – last client
• Musical Genre: Bossa Nova, Jazz, Samba, Blues

• Gôndola Café Kiosk Cuisine/Specialty: Italian and Mediterranean Food
• Gôndola Café Kiosk Address: Av. Epitácio Pessoa, Kiosk # 15 - Cantagalo Park
• Gôndola Café Kiosk Open Hours: Mon. to Fri 11:30 to last client; Sat. and Sun: 10:00 – last client
• Gôndola Café Kiosk Payment Options: Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Dinners
• Gôndola Café Kiosk Musical Genre: Italian Piano & MPB

• Arab Kiosk Cuisine/Specialty: Arab Food
• Arab Kiosk Address: Av. Borges de Medeiros, Kiosk # 7
• Arab Kiosk Open Hours: Mon-Fri.10:30 AM thru 02:00. Sat & Sun: 11:00/ last Cust.
• Arab Kiosk Payment Options: Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Dinners
• Arab Kiosk Musical Genre: Live Music, different options MPB, Samba & Jazz

Lagoa Restaurants: From Chinese Duck to Spicy Salmon Maki & Vodka

Like expected, this top notch neighborhood has a restaurant selection surely ready to satisfy most diverse appetite. The captivating district at the wonder city has two pizzas houses amongst the best in town, apart from Japanese, Chinese, Italian, and German cuisine gourmet food. Belavista-Rio reviewed five restaurants in this neighborhood so readers could have a taste of what to expect around main streets & avenues.

Following you will read the critique of five restaurants: a pizza houses Braz Pizzaria; the Carioca branch of the glamorous Chinese Mr.Lam, a German-Austrian Cuisine Restaurant called “Bar Lagoa” established in an authentic 1936 art-deco building and finally a review of the fine Japanese restaurant captained by renown Sushi man Jorge Omura called Katmandu.

We are sure these gourmet restaurants could be considered Rio de Janeiro vacation top gastronomic indications, both because of their prestige and popularity. But that’s not all, if you are part of that group that likes to know your surroundings by foot, try to visit other restaurants within the region´s borders: , located at Maria Angélica, 21- (Japanese Food) 21; , Rua Mário Ribeiro 410 - (Japanese Food) ; and at Avenida Epitacio Pessoa, 204 ( Italian Food ). Finally, we also provided a series of additional information for the restaurants we noted as their addresses, phone numbers, website, open hours, etc…We hope with this unbiased list Belavista-Rio carefully prepared for you, you will not have to ask for fast food!!

The Bráz Pizzaria, located between Jardim Botânico and Lagoa districts, has a simple but charming architecture. Originally from São Paulo, this traditional pizza house arrived in Rio-de-Janeiro to revive the old school of pizzas hand-made by Italian descendants. The interior decor is decorated with classic paving-tiles. This pizza house serves as an appetizer its famous cooked eggplant, prepared as marinated slices in olive oil and mint, covered with mozzarella. The other appetizer option is the celebrated calabresa bread baked daily in a firewood oven. This Braz Pizzaria offers more than 26 types of pizza divided into four categories: house specialties, “cousin´s classics”, traditional and contemporary pizzas.

The pizzas of the Braz Pizzaria are made of fine dough and baked with soft edges in the Napolitano fashion. This type of pizza is known to have lost favor in the taste of the Carioca. One negative aspect of this new and trendy pizza spot in town is its popularity.  You should arrive before 8:00 PM or expect at least a one-hour wait, even on Mondays, the least busy night. The chain’s first location at the wonder city features the same menu delights of the São Paulo original Braz Pizzaria but with an extra flavor: the pizza with Italian zucchini sticks, marinated eggplant cubes and cool fresh tomatoes gourmet designed in homage to the city. The “Caprese”, another specialty of the Braz Pizzaria combines mozzarella, meat slices of khaki-tomato, pesto basil and white olives.

Braz Pizzaria Additional Details: Address: R Maria Angelica, 129, Jardim Botânico ● Phone: 2535-0687 ●: Price Range: $15-$30 All Major Credit Cards Accepted ● Open Hours: Everyday From 6:30 PM to Midnight; Friday’s and Saturday’s until 01:30 AM; ● Important Advice: Arrive early!

Bar Lagoa is one of the oldest bars of the wonder city, being inaugurated in 1934 along the shore of the Rodrigo de Freitas Lake. Built and decorated in traditional art deco style, this charming bar went through some tough times during World War II because of its old name: It was called Berlim Bar, and after Brazil joined the Allied Forces, the bar suffered protest attacks by students. Bar Berlim changed then its name to its current name and restored its interior and exterior design. Ever since, the bar became a traditional meeting point for Cariocas looking for cold draft beer and impeccable view.

With tables inside and outside, it is packed just about every day, despite the apparent bad temper of the waiters - no joke, this is part of the charm of the place and a famous conversation topic in town. The food is a mix of Brazilian and German treats, with excellent steaks, and a signature sausage with potato salad and ice-cold draft beer that is one of the all-time favorites. The bar is also famed by its warm sunset view. It is possible to watch the sunset across Rios mountains (and its reflection on the Lake ) from the outside balcony tables.

In 1987, Bar Lagoa received a unique prize: It was by formally protected by the city´s Bureau of Culture, receiving a decree labeling it as a “significant landmark of the cultural life of Rio" and can not be demolished or changed, both because of its architectural and cultural aspects (The Bar is one of the best examples of Rio´s Art Deco buildings). Definitely worth a visit, since it’s a real Carioca Classic. Our dinner suggestion would be their Steak Tartar, considered one of the best in town.

Additional Details: Address: Avenida Epitácio Pessoa, 1674; Rio-de-Janeiro ● Phone:2523 1135 ● Average cost: US$ 20.00; ● Booking advisable: No ● Category: European ● Major Credit Cards Accepted ● Cuisine type: Austrian, German & Swiss ● Disabled access: No ● Home delivery: No ;Opening hours: Daily noon-2 AM.

When Brazilian mogul Eike Batista set out to staff his new Chinese eatery, he wanted the country's top cooks. But his partner, renowned chef Sik Chung Lam, persuaded him to call in ringers from Asia. Now they're running Brazil's finest—and most authentic—Chinese restaurant.

Ambience: With twin giant terra-cotta Xian-dynasty warriors flanking the entrance, a lofty ceiling and understated crème décor, the main salon resembles a museum gallery. For a tryst, book a table on the mezzanine floor with plush red curtains.

Food: Mr. Lam-Rio features impressive contemporary architecture and design featuring high ceilings, internal balconies and enormous windows overlooking the lagoon along with a menu of enticing and carefully prepared dishes that attract an upper-class crowd for meals of crispy duck and handmade noodles. In addition to the a la carte menu, there is a tasting menu (R$88 per person) that allows you to sample a number of main and side dishes, and special Peking Duck (R$148). The a la carte options of Mr.LamRio are divided among fish and seafood, poultry and meat and there are a few vegetarian options.

The crispy duck (R$79) is a signature dish. The tofu, veggie and mushroom side dish, for R$14, is tasty and big enough to share and the gambie (R$15), inconceivably light and crispy kale with candied cashew nuts, is an unusual pleasure. If the seven-page menu leaves you dazed, go for one of three tasting menus. The feast kicks off with a suite of kill-me-softly starters—most notably "Sqwab With Lettuce," a build-it-yourself treat of minced chicken, fried collard greens and spiced cashews stuffed into a crisp shell of iceberg lettuce. Mr.Lam-Rio Wine list: The selection spans both the Old and New worlds. If you don't feel up to a Château Mouton Rothschild ($905) there are plenty of down-to-earth wines from Australia, Spain and Chile.

Dessert: Temptations range from the sensible (tropical-fruit mix) to the surreal (mango mousse with a banana coulis, custard cream and chocolate sauce). Chase with a stiff Brazilian espresso.

Mr. LAM_Rio Additional Details: Address: Rue Maria Angelica, 21, Rio-de-Janeiro.● Phone 2286-6661 ● Price Range: US$ 40,00 per person ● Open Hours: Open Tuesday through Thursday 7pm-12:30am, Friday and Saturday 7pm-1:30am and Sunday from 12 noon -6pm. ● All major credit cards accepted. ● Important Advice: Make your

Katmandu Sushi Lounge

Katmandu Sushi Lounge was recently ( 2008 ) inaugurated to fulfill the neighborhood residents famous appetite for Japanese Food. The new sushi has a privileged view to the Rodrigo de Freitas Lake and was strategically placed at the second floor of a two-story building house. The interior décor is essentially modern with natural tones transmitting the orient touch. Several Buddha statues harmonize with golden, black and brown elements.

This Sushi Lounge also has a very nice open balcony for those who prefer the natural breeze from the lake. The new Japanese restaurant hired renowned sushi men Jorge Omura who prepares artful combinations of sushi and sashimi dishes, according to the clients’ desires. One of the most unusual and requested servings is the house’s Tamaki made without algae and rice, but with turnip leaves, mustard and spicy tuna crunch. Those looking for stronger flavors at Katmandu Sushi Lounge at this charming district could try some of their other best sellers: Spicy Maki (rolled tuna or salmon) served with Vodka, or the Pastry Cooked Oyster made with tamarind sauce...Sounds sexy and fun, just perfect for that long waited date.

Additional Details: Katmandu Sushi Lounge Address: Av. Epitacio Pessoa 1484; ● Phone: 2522-0654 ● Cuisine Type: Japanese Food ● Open Hours: 7 pm to 2 am: from Mondays thru Saturday - Closes on Sunday ● No Delivery ● All Major Credit Cards Accepted

Classy Day Clubs: Brazil Jockey Club, SHB, Naval Club & Fitness Center

The district is also famed within locals due to the private day clubs established in that neighborhood. Cariocas who are members of these clubs enjoy activities such as swimming, tennis, basketball, soccer, sauna and club restaurants. The is a traditional club which sponsors high level equestrian competitions, is located at Av. Borges de Medeiros, 2448. Another famous club located at the Lagoon and Gávea is the Brazilian Jockey Club(http://www.jcb.com.br/) , home of the most important horse racing competition in Brazil, including the Brazil Grand Prix, held every year on the first Sunday of August. Betting is open to members and non-members.

Other clubs around its limits are Clube Naval ( Naval Club ), , where cricket is still played on a well maintained cricket ground, Clube dos Caiçaras and Clube Militar ( Military Club) , located at Rua Jardim Botânico , 391. Finally, there is also giant gym facility called . This wellness center has many fitness activities options, such as Pilates, Yoga, Spinning, Soccer, Stretch, Judo and traditional gym classes.

Visit Eva Klabin Foundation: Impressive Art Collection & Museum

The , one of Rio-de-Janeiro’s house museums, is also located at the neighborhood. The museum owns a collection of of antiques, family memorabilia, chinese sculptures and porcelain that is more extensive than in any other house museum in the city. Formerly the home of the foundation’s founder Eva Klabin, the Eva Klabin Foundation is within walking distance of Rodrigo de Freitas. Also known as the Lagoon, the lake is linked to the sea by the Jardim de Alah canal. In addition to the Eva Klabin Foundation, the area also boasts many parks, a heliport, jogging and bicycle paths, and an outdoor food court.

The home, which was built in Rio-de-Janeiro in 1931 was purchased by Klabin and her husband in 1952. It was actually one of the first homes to occupy the neighborhood around the newly revitalized lagoon. Shortly after the purchase of the house, Klabin and her husband hired Gaetano Minnucci, a Roman architect to redesign both the exterior and interior of the home. It was believed that she actually planned to demolish the existing residence and rebuild a classic palatial estate. That plan, however, never came to fruition and instead in the early 1960’s, the widowed Klabin renovated the entire house. It was believed she needed the extra room for her ever growing collection of artifacts.

Completed by an engineering firm based in Rio-de-Janeiro, the renovation actually lasted seven years, during which Eva Klabin lived instead in a beachfront apartment that she also owned. It is said that Klabin was completely immersed in the project and used only the finest materials available at the time. Last minute changes were common, as Klabin made sure that every single item was exactly the way she wanted it. Klabin returned to her home in 1967 and the Eva Klabin house became a showpiece for one of Rio-de-Janeiro’s most popular hostesses, often inviting small groups in to tour the house and view her collections.

Klabin apparently began collecting clasical art pieces as a young girl and continued to do so right up until her death. The way in which the items were collected, in fact, seemed to suggest that the museum had been her goal all along. Eva Klabin acquired the majority of the items from Brazilian auction houses, antique shops and private individuals.

She traveled extensively in search of new treasures as well to Rome, Hong Kong, New York, Barcelona, Madrid, Vienna, Zurich and London to just name a few of her favorite cities. Klabin added to the collection regularly but the additions were more often than not made one at time rather than in bulk. In fact, the many years of her life were often broken up into periods of time in which she would concentrate on building a specific collection.

In the sixties and seventies, it seems, however, that she devoted her time to filling in any gaps in her collections, making sure each was as complete as it could be.

It is believed that the concept of the foundation originated around the time that Klabin moved back into her newly renovated home and in the 1980’s, she began meeting with experts to catalogue and inventory her treasures. She painstakingly researched individual pieces and waded into the legalities of setting up her foundation. Each room in the house in which the collection is displayed was named by Klabin herself. The became official in 1990 just a year before it’s founder passed away. Upon her death, Klabin bequeathed her legacy to the City of Rio-de-Janeiro. Four years later on August 22, 1995 – the Eva Klabin Foundation was officially open to the public. The Minister of Culture, Francisco Weffort presided at the event. The responsibilities of the Eva Klabin Foundation were to create and maintain the museum as well as organize artistic, historical and cultural activities.

Featured collections at the museum include an Egyptian Collection, a Greco-a Roman Collection, an Italian Collection, a French Collection, an English Collection, a Flemish and a Dutch Collection, an Oriental Collection, and a Pre-Colombian Collection. The Applied Art Collection contains over 1,000 items that span four continents including America, Africa, Asia and Europe. It is believed that the Eva Klabin Foundation collection is one of the most important classic art exhibits in all of Brazil.